So you have some of the FAB-u-lous South House Chalk Cloth Banners – or thinking you may have to have some soon – and you want a totally festive way to hang them. I’ve got ya covered.

So here’s a quick and quirky stop action video to show you just how simple it really is. With not 1, but 2, sneaky tricks!

So sneaky trick 1: Raid the pantry for a jig to evenly space those banners (because you know those little details make me crazy).

And sneaky trick 2: use a simple wire ornament hanger (or even the wire under the paper on twist ties). Position is so the bottom loop is right at the point and gently poke the top look through the loose weave of the burlap behind the chalk cloth. All set to festoon those banners with your special accents.

How to DIY a comfy ottoman – From overhead to underfoot

So does anyone else wander through their local Habitat ReStore, relishing the DIY high? Yeah, I knew I wasn’t alone.

A large, sturdy tufted ottoman was on the list for our basement re-do. Large for our game nights with 5 or 6 couples gathered around for Apples to Apples or Cranium. Tufted for ultimate cozy comfort. And sturdy for the herd of teenage boys that hang here.

So on a recent ReStore treasure hunt, I came upon this solid oak “box” – really just four walls with reinforced corners.  I’m thinking it hung out over a kitchen island in its first life camouflaging an exhaust fan or fluorescent lights. But, really I’m thinking for $5, it’s mine!

With a girth of 26 x 50-inches, this big guy definitely qualifies for hefty – just what I wanted. Since the frame is 9-inches tall, I didn’t need legs, but just some substantial feet to lift it a bit off the floor and provide some toe clearance. So across the way in the lumber department I salvaged 2 horribly dated, but hefty solid wood newel posts – just what I needed.

I started by sanding the oak box and the newel posts. Then used my favorite gel stain to get a rich, dark finish. I love gel stain followed up with a coat or two paste wax. It produces a smooth finish with depth and a hint of the grain remains.

I cut the newel posts so that the long squared ends fill the corners of the box with just a single round “bun” foot extending below the box frame. I used 4 wood screws for each leg. From the top of the box frame lip, I screwed down into the top of the legs. Be sure to countersink these screws so the particle board top lays evenly against the frame.

I cut a piece of particle board the size of the frame. With spray adhesive, attached a piece of 4-inch foam. Then a layer of batting is stapled all around and trimmed.

This particle board top is then set on top of the box frame and attached from below with wood screws through the box lip.

On the under side of the top I marked where I wanted my button tufting and drilled a small hole through the particle board. Then I placed my fabric over the batting, centering and pulling taut I stapled the fabric lining up the plaid with the edges. I stapled carefully making sure that the staples lined up in the top 1/2-inch of the box frame. Then they were hidden under a band of twill tape and decorative upholstery nails at 2-inch intervals.

Time for Tufting:
You will need plenty of heavy upholstery thread and a super long upholsterer’s needle, a decorative shank button (doesn’t absolutely have to be shank, but that is typical) and a backer 2 hole button for the underside for each drilled tufting hole. Fabric stores sell clear, thick 2-hole buttons for this purpose, but you can use others as long as they are strong (thick) and the holes are large enough for the eye of the upholsterer’s needle. A bit of masking tape or painter’s tape, scotch tape will do in a pinch.

Turn your ottoman on it’s side. With a very long piece of heavy upholstery thread doubled in your needle, work from the underside.

1) Tape a lengthy amount of the doubled thread tail to the particle board, close to the hole.

2) Start the thread by going through one hole of the backer button. Let that backer button just dangle resting by the tape holding the thread.

3) Now push your needle through the hole, foam, batting and fabric at a straight angle so your buttons will be exactly over the holes. It’s easier if you recruit a helpful hand on the fabric side pushing in the foam for you.

4) Once you pull the needle through, thread through the shank of the decorative button, then back down through the same hole. Don’t pull it tight yet; let the button dangle close to the fabric.

5) Now on the underside you will have 2 pieces of thread going through the backer button and into the hole and 2 pieces and the needle coming back out of the hole. Thread the needle through the empty hole of the backer button in the opposite direction (so the button will eventually lay flat against the underside) and then back up through the original backer button hole just like the first time.

6) Then again through the foam and through the decorative button in the same direction as the first time.

7) Back down through the foam and the drilled hole. One more time through the backer button. Now you should have two lengths of thread coming out of each hole of the backer button and four threads going through the shank of the decorative button. Cut the looped thread by the needle so you have two pairs of long, loose thread. Remove the tape and holding a pair of threads in each hand, pull gently (I find using a rocking motion of one hand pulling, then the other works great) until you get the both the decorative button and the backer button in place against the fabric and the board. Now have your helper push the decorative button down into the foam while you firmly pull the threads taut and tie off in a square knot.

Repeat for each button.

What I would do differently the next time around:

If my box was not damaged around the top as this one was (probably where some trim had been glued and nailed) I would have wrapped the fabric under the particle board and tufted it before attaching on top of the box frame. But given the rough condition of the top 1/2-inch of my box, I went this route and love it.

Yes, quite a few more projects for the basement reno, but definitely getting there.

Loving the results so far – AND the process!

Fireplace install made the biggest difference and I’m thrilled with how the Faux Cast Concrete surround turned out. Here’s the tutorial for how I did that one.

How To: Craft multiple cake stands for any occasion, any style

Whether centerpiece, full buffet or a dessert spread, adding height is a surefire way of adding pizazz. Cake plates of varying heights and sizes act as stages for the stars of your show.

And it’s even a better show when the cake plates help set the mood, establish the theme.

For my “Take & Make” article in the Spring 2013 issue of DIY wedding magazine, I crafted three different versions of cake plates all using paper mache box lids from craft stores. The lids are elevated on urns, vases or candlesticks. BONUS: So much easier to store than traditional cake plates and tiered stands – just nest the boxes and lids inside each other!

Vintage Romance? Rustic Elegance?

Decoupaged vintage love song sheet music creates a wavy “skirt”. Decoupage medium adds stability and shine. A swipe of a bronze stamp pad ages the edges and a bit of iridescent powder blended in the final coat of decoupage adds a touch of shimmer. Rescued chandelier prisms dangle from tiny holes punched through the lid edge.

For a tiered server, stack em!

Lotsa Dots Casual? Backyard Sweet?

Simplest of all, wired ribbon!

Bunch and twist along lid edge and secure a bow or silk flower with a tumbtack. Glue & tape give an extra boost of staying power. And the boxes? Let them stand duty for some greenery – or maybe to hold bundles of silverware or stacks of plates.

Fresh Prep? Sweetly Tailored? Crochet, Anyone?

For a springtime preppy themed event, I envisioned a fresh modern approach to the classic patterns of houndstooth, argyle and pinstripe. Yellow, grey and pink brought the perfect light touch to the traditional menswear patterns.

For the argyle lid, start by tracing the lid on a piece of tissue paper.

Then give the paper mache boxes and lids a base coat of white acrylic craft paint. Or if the craft paper brown fits in your color scheme, just skip this base coat.

While your base is drying, draw out your diamond pattern on your tissue paper. Start by drawing vertical and horizontal centerpoint lines. They must be exactly perpendicular for the diamonds to all come out correctly. Double check by lining up the corner of a magazine, envelope, etc.

My example is a 12-inch lid and I used a 4 x 3 layout of diamonds.

On your work surface, not on the lid as my picture shows:
1) Mark vertical line at 4-inches from centerpoint both directions.
2) Mark horizontal line at 3-inch intervals again from centerpoint in both directions.
3) With a straight edge, draw a line from edge to edge, joining points A and B, then C and D. Draw a third line that is parallel to these two that crosses the centerpoint.
4) Measure the distance between these three lines and draw two more lines this same distance out from your original A-B and C-D lines.
5) Repeat this same process going the other direction: Draw lines through A and D, and then through B and C. Another parallel to these through the centerpoint. And then two more equidistant outside the two original lines.

Note: if your geometry, measurements and the circular shape of the lid are all perfect, the lines will bisect each other on the outline. Ha! This is real life here! So if you’re close like mine are – you’re good! And on your way to awesome.

6) Number or mark off your diamonds in an alternating pattern to help see the layout.
7) With tissue paper on your lid, make a tiny pencil mark where each line crosses the edge.

8) Break out the painter’s tape and mark off the sections following your guide sheet.
9) Paint color one, and remove painter’s tape right away. Let dry.
10) Tape again and paint color 2, removing the painter’s tape right away again. Let dry.

11) Final step: The dashed line that defines argyle. If you have a steady hand and a keen eye, certainly just freehand it. I have the eye, but not so much the hand, so I prefer to use two rows of painter’s tape down the center of my diamonds. Then paint my row of dashes.

For texture, I finished mine with a band of pink velvet ribbon, rather than paint.

And for the Pinstripe:

1) Create thin pinstripes by using vertical strips of painter’s tape closely spaced evenly(-ish) around a box. Paint. Remove tape and let dry.
2) Make a stencil for your wide stripe by cutting two thin strips of tape. Place them just inside two of your painted thin stripes. Make “handles” with more tape just above and below the box. These handles make it easy to lift and move your stencil between each row of stripes. Place, paint, remove with handles and move to the next stripes, place, paint, remove, place, paint, remove, …. around the box.

And for the Houndstooth:

How To: Fire & Stone – The Muddy, Messy Road to Cozy Warmth

Our basement was a perfectly serviceable rumpus room. Yes, it’s where the “Wild Things” hung out. Well, that was until 3 years ago when I stumbled onto a beautiful antique pool table at a neighbor’s. Thwarted by the basement stairwells, it ended up in their garage sale. Fortunately, our basement is a walkout. And I couldn’t walk out of their garage without naively claiming that table as ours.

Thus began the 3 year DIY project. Yes, the pool table is significantly larger than the Air Hockey table it replaced. So game area flips with lounge area, which means we steal a bit of space from the adjoining storage room; and certainly that pool table couldn’t sit on the painted concrete floors and certainly new carpet deserves fresh paint, which of course means … and on … and on … Oh yeah, like you‘ve never brought home a pair of shoes that demanded a whole new outfit. Yeah, I thought so.

And now,  finally, the biggest ticket element is in the final stages. Yes, the gas fireplace we’ve been dreaming of and saving for is ordered. Now what to do for the surround and mantel? We wanted a solid, built-in, warm look but with no busy texture. 

Once I saw this photo of a cast concrete fireplace surround on Nell Hill’s website, I knew what we had to have. But I didn’t want to wait 3 more years while we saved up the serious dough that a custom concrete surround requires.

So, being the thrifty DIY-er,  I broke out some trusty supplies and started experimenting. The result: A custom “concrete” fireplace surround, mantel and flue for less than $125 in supplies. (Check out the supply list at the end of this post).

Can you see it yet? The construction is done.

Yes, the fire box is not centered in the surround. Blame those pesky support beams. No point in rehabbing the basement to have the top two floors coming crashing down, right?

It will work once I get to accessorizing, trust me.

Now let the fun begin. Mud pies and Finger Paints, anyone?

Just a bit of detail on the construction decisions:

I rescued a great mantel from the ReStore to use. But, Safety codes + raised hearth + low-hanging beam = mantel profile NOT mantel overhang. Pooh! So mantel was set back for no overhang.

We finished the frame surrounding the firebox with bullnose edging to marry up with the profile of the mantel.

Not the original vision, but I’m still lovin’.

Sand the gloss and filler off the mantel.

Tape off the walls and lay on a good coat of primer.

I used some leftover Kilz I had on hand as really the idea is to unify the color of the wood part with the drywall part, so the final product is cohesive.

Once the primer is dry it’s time to layer on the “concrete”, kinda like frosting a cake. But my icing is joint compound.

The joint compound needs to be thinned a bit, but rather than water, I used latex paint. This thins it while also altering the color to a version of concrete that works for our room.

Bonus: two steps in one – color and texture. Woo!Hoo! Streamlining!

Yes, I just raided my paint stash and started adding anything latex I thought would take it from the cold grey of joint compound to a bit brighter and warmer beige/grey concrete.

This took a bit of experimenting. So I used a piece of white cardboard, close to my basecoat primer starting point. Initially a bit too yellow, then pink undertone – ooow, not good! – then finally had it right.

Yes, the colors in the pic are all off, but you get the idea.

The color changes significantly from wet to dry, so be sure you let it dry before judgement.

I started by trying to spread my mud mixture with a putty knife. Don’t recommend this.

Rather, I found a wide foam brush worked the best. Surprisingly, it held up great with the weight of the mud.

But then when you get to the dips, valleys and curves, nothing works better than your fingers. Aww, how I miss those kindergarten days.

As with painting, the best results are from two light coats, rather than one heavy coat.

After the initial layer of mud is on, let it dry a bit and then smooth it out using a combination of this damp tile sponge and foam brush.

Then in selected spots, a light pouncing of the sponge produces the “concrete” dimples I was hoping for.

In those tight spaces and valleys, I again resorted to my fingers. Here I dipped my fingers to get them plenty wet, so the mud wouldn’t stick to them as the idea now is to smooth and texture the mud that is already in place.

(Yikes! time to schedule a deep conditioning manicure)

And on the flat surfaces where I used a sponge to create the dimples, if it left some raised bumps, or too much texture, I again used my wet fingers to smooth them out a bit.

I was going for the look of traditional cast concrete, not adobe or stucco. If those fits your home and style, then certainly adjust your texturing accordingly.

After the initial coating is completely dry, lightly sand, wipe away the dust and layer on a second coat using the same method.

Again, dry, sand and wipe.

Joint Compound is porous – yes, it will absorb any splatter of pizza sauce, spray of Dr. Pepper, or splash of red wine, not that any of that would happen in our house. It’s also dusty, chalky.

Two coats of Dead Flat Varnish from Modern Masters, a sister company of Rustoleum, is protecting our new basement focal point from all of “Life’s Fun”.

It is the only water-based, truly flat finish varnish I know of. It is a bit pricey at $31, but I have a number of projects I plan to use it on. And it was perfect here.

Fireplace is installed – by the Pros! I’m off for that deep conditioning manicure, then back to let the decorating begin!

This is the view as you come down the stairs. Love the impact of my great sunburst clock there – a real Wow factor from that angle. But from the rest of the room, it’s chopped off too much by the low-hanging beam. So it will hang in a better, more deserving spot in this new room.

For now, I’m going with this as my initial set-up. Certainly it will change significantly with the seasons and my whims – and of course as I score new treasures and flex my crafting muscle.

The fireplace is a huge one off the list, but still many details to go:

First, tile that hearth bench! And surely, the back-ordered steel fireplace frame will arrive soon. Multiple swoon-worthy throw pillows, of course! Window treatments, drawer pulls and cabinet knobs, switchplate covers, magazine & book rack, drum shade over the game table, …. And yes, the sons’ top priority, a B.I.G. flatscreen TV – someday, boys, someday!

For you skeptics, my promised supply list:

Oak mantel: $20

Drywall, tape, bullnose: $20

Screws & Nails: $18

Joint Compound: $13

Lumber: $22

Dead Flat Varnish: $31

Total: $124

Don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions. I’m happy to lend advise and encouragement should you head down a similar muddy road. Don’t be intimidated – it’s really very fun and easy. (Not so much the construction, mind you).

Behind the Scenes – Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide No. 2

Welcome DIY Wedding Readers!

Follow along for a pictorial behind-the-scenes peek into the layering of our featured entrance.

Hints as you prepare for your big day:

If possible stage your entrance several days in advance.

Take plenty of props with you and then edit, edit and edit again on site until you achieve the perfect balance.

Set your camera and snap a final shot.

AND as you pack up the winning props, as you remove each item, snap another picture. You now will have your own tutorial for your Mom’s best friend, your aunt, your cousin or the event site personnel to recreate your entrance when it counts.

Here’s a peek into the building of this entrance:

Behind the Scenes – Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide No. 1

Welcome DIY Wedding Readers!

Follow along for a pictorial behind-the-scenes peek into the layering of our featured entrance.

Hints as you prepare for your big day:

If possible stage your entrance several days in advance.

Take plenty of props with you and then edit, edit and edit again on site until you achieve the perfect balance.

Set your camera and snap a final shot.

AND as you pack up the winning props, as you remove each item, snap another picture. You now will have your own tutorial for your Mom’s best friend, your aunt, your cousin or the event site personnel to recreate your entrance when it counts.

Here’s a peek into the building of this entrance:

Better Homes & Gardens

Holiday Crafts 2010

I was so honored – and thrilled – to have been contacted by the editors of Better Homes & Gardens magazine to design a pair of my stockings for the 2010 Holiday Crafts Special Publication.

And then it hit the news stands – WOW!

Such wonderful photography and an amazing layout.

Many, many thanks to all at Better Homes & Gardens.

You are truly a delight to work for,

Diane

Our screened porch is our favorite room “in” the house. Although this year, I have to admit I am yearning for the cooler days of Fall to settle in for a bit so we can truly enjoy it.

Anticipating some fresh, cooler weather, I decided this well loved sanctuary needed some freshening itself, starting with a sadly abused lampshade. We have the perfect (heavy and indestructible) lamp that sits on a workhorse of a cabinet (next in line for a facelift). Yes, there’s a roof overhead, but the weather still manages to infiltrate quite a bit, so things like lampshades, just don’t hold up like inside.

Part of the porch facelift includes adding some fresh color – pale blues and greens (think sea glass) to brighten the taupe, black, white and deep red.

During an online search, I was taken by this lamp:

I liked the appearance of aged stenciling on linen. I liked the subtlety of the graphics that complimented the lamp base rather than overpower it.

But the shade was not sold separately, wasn’t really my color palette, is a tad bit old world for my porch. But it was perfect to serve as my muse – my inspiration.

With this self-adhesive lamp shade from Conso at JoAnn’s:

and a piece of wonderful linen I pulled from my fabric stash I was set to begin the first of piece of porch brightening and lightening in hopes of washing away the oppressive heat of this summer.

Now for the stenciling. I had a couple of stencils on hand but neither were the right scale for the shade. If I was going to make my own without the aid of a cricut or silhouette (which are still on my Christmas list – are you reading this Doug?), then I ought to keep the design simple.

So out came a piece of leftover self-adhesive fabric laminate and my circle cutter. I cut 4 different size circles and then cut out the centers, approximately 1/8-inch smaller. Threw out those skinny little “donuts”.

I peeled off the backing and before I could overthink it,  I started sticking the larger outer “background” randomly on the fabric with the corresponding inner “hole” intentionally off kilter just a bit, so one side of the circle would be thicker than the other. Mixed up some paint in varying shades of taupe and cream and dabbed away. Peeled up the circles and repeated randomly overlapping. On a whim, I added one circle of a deep raspberry.

So happy with how it turned out. NOTE TO SELF: Willy Nilly can be good, stop overthinking!

Next it was press and cut. Simply peel the paper outer cover off the shade, lay this paper cover on your fabric and use it as a template. Now, of course, I couldn’t just go with that. I had to add the extra challenge of finishing the top and bottom with a self bias trim. If you are an advanced sewer, go for it. If you’re a beginner it’s perfectly fine to trim the fabric to the exact edge of the shade and cover with adhesive ribbon or trim.

I cut bias strips 1 5/8-inches wide. I cut the upper edge of the lampshade along the edge of the paper pattern and sewed the bias strip at 1/2-inch along that edge. Pressed with seam and the bias up. Laid the pattern along this cut edge and cut the bottom of the lampshade fabric along the pattern. Sewed and pressed like before.

Now for the fun. Starting with the seam, lay the super sticky lampshade on one end of your fabric. Slowly work your way around the shade working out the air bubbles as you go and keeping the edges of your fabric aligned with the edges of the shade.

Then wrap the bias over the edge and secure to the inside upper and lower edges. I used a double sided heat activated tape as that is what I had on hand. Plus I have a small heat tool with a tiny iron head that I’ve been looking for a project to try it out on. Perfect for this job.

And here you have it:

The beginning of a porch facelift. Yes, I’m just beginning the busiest season for my Etsy shop, so there’s no way it will be completed for Fall watch parties, I’m hoping for next Spring.

And I’m hoping my lampshade and this project will inspire you.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Happy to lend a guiding hand. Yes, I was a bit worried about the weight of the linen, but the adhesive is super strong and so far it’s been great. I am toying with giving it a coat or two of a matte varnish to protect it from all the dirt, dust and pollen that blows in. I’m thinking that way I could wipe it with a damp cloth.

  OR… Unruly Twine Through a Bunch of Holes!

Necessity may be the mother of invention. But for me, creative solutions are often born from desperation.

Problem – albeit a happy one: So many chalk cloth banners to make and ship, so few hours in the day.

I needed a quick way to thread jute cord through the grommets of a stack of banners waiting to ship. Think, think, think … my mother would use a little wire needle threader. What I needed was one of those on steroids! Or perhaps a giant needle with a crazy huge cyclops-ic eye. Desperation was setting in – time to flex my creative problem solving muscle.
Yep, that’s any ordinary twist tie. Fold it in half and twist ends. Then feed the ends into the grommet or hole. Trash bag size twist ties will easily handle a whole stack of banners (well, in my case) or perhaps a whole stack of scrap book pages for you.

Feed a couple of inches of your twine-yarn-ribbon through the loop of your twist tie – your new indispensable mega threader. Pull through the hole. As you pull, the twist tie will collapse around the twine holding it tight. Then proceed to the next hole, and the next and the next.

And not just for stacks of banners waiting for jute twine. I use this same “invention” to thread crazy wide ribbon through impossibly small holes.

So here’s the Houdini Act in progress:

I now use this every single day. Who would have thought that all I needed was a twist tie from the kitchen “junk drawer” to simplify my life?

Keep this tip handy if you have some of my banners or labels. Next time you want to hang them, just head to your kitchen junk drawer for the perfect aid. And yes, this will come in handy in so many other creative pursuits.

 Treats for ALL the Guests

Admit it. You can’t help but smile, right?  I adore these pictures, the charm, the vibrant fun, the theme – I just love it all!

Lauren & Robert were planning their big day. They lovingly and joyfully tailored it to their personal style while creating a farmers’ market treat for all their guests. And I have to admit I was downright awestruck when I saw the results – so much charm and rustic romance! Just have to share a few pictures with you.

This has to be one of my hands-down favorite use of my chalk cloth banners. Yes, I am a creative thinker; and yes, I intentionally designed my banners to handle a myriad of decorating situations. But I continue to be blown away by what my customers come up with. And the simplicity and charm of this one: shepherds’ hooks stuck in hay bales. Total brilliance.

In true country hospitality style, Lauren crafted a delightful, and refreshingly charming day for ALL her guests – even the youngest. I love the idea of a “Kids’ Corral” – an area totally dedicated to the tykes – that included nostalgic games, mini tractors and special candy treats.

If you have an extra couple of minutes, treat yourself to the more pictures of

Lauren & Robert’s special day.

Many thanks to Lauren and Robert for sharing their beautiful day with us.

We Wish you ALL THE VERY BEST!